With the hull painted, my next step was to install the skid strips on the bottoms of the skegs. I ordered UHMW (ultra-high molecular weight) plastic from US Plastic Corp. I got two 1 1/2" wide10-foot lengths cut at the 7 foot mark for shipping. I ripped them in the table saw to 1 1/4" wide, cut them to final length, rounded the ends, and routed a roundover on the edges.
I then drilled and countersunk screw holes in the plastic to match up with the prepared spacing on the skegs. I drilled into the skegs in the places where I had previously overdrilled and filled with thickened epoxy. I first put a tape flag on my drill bit so I would not go too deep and drilled pilot holes for the screws.
I then countersunk the skeg a bit, because I found when driving the screws in I would auger up a little epoxy and then the skid strip wouldn't lie flat on the skeg. On the second skeg I used a bit bigger drill and things went better. You need to use a larger pilot drill than you would if driving the screw into wood.
The Weldon countersink shown here works great for any kind of counter sinking -- much superior to the other style that is star-shaped on the end and always tend to chatter.
Here's the little countersink in the skeg.
Before screwing down the skid strip I prebent the most severe curve, holding it in place with a couple small clamps.
Screwing the strip on then went smoothly.
I continued to drive in all the screws.
Here's a closer shot of the front end.
And an overall view. I think it looks nice.
Very nice work!
ReplyDeleteSimeon
Thanks, Simeon!
DeleteDave, This looks so nice. I'll bet this will allow the boat to slid off rocks or a cement ramp remarkably well. One question: I've heard this material moves a lot with temperature changes. Were you concerned at all the linear expansion and contraction of the runners?
ReplyDeleteBrent
Hi, Brent - regarding the runners changing dimension - I really didn't consider that. I have some material left over, and it might be interesting to measure it and then do so again after putting it in the freezer and next to the wood stove.
DeleteI guess there's potential for it to heat up on the trailer on a hot summer day, but when in the water I wouldn't expect a range much greater than 40 degrees to 75 degrees or so in the course of a year. So I'm thinking there may not be an issue.
Thanks - Dave
Dave,
ReplyDeleteHow thick is the UHMW that you used? How thick does it have to be to countersink? Thanks, Tad
Tad - I was thinking it was 1/4", but I just measured a scrap to be sure and found it was .265, which is 17/64 (1/64 thicker than 1/4"). It's thick enough to countersink fine. -- Dave
Delete